ETHNOPHOTOGRAPHYSascha Klamp · Armenia
A woman in a knitted waistcoat stands in a doorway, framed by a lace curtain

A walk through a project · Armenia, December 2020 to April 2022

The Art of Seeing, The Art of Remembering

Four journeys, two villages, and the family albums they kept. From the field notes for my book, An Armenian Journal.

Entry one · The road in

In November 2020 I decided to travel to Armenia. The war was coming to an end. It was later called the 44-day war.

I left London in the knowledge that my mission was worth our family’s while. And I literally did not know anyone upon arrival.

A white Lada parked on a snowy slope, with mountains behind
Spring 2022
A man walks his sheep down a snowy lane past stone houses
Spring 2022
A village road at dusk, the sun setting at the far end
June 2021
An old cream delivery van parked by a gravel road, mountains behind
June 2021
A small metal boat pulled up on a dark shore at sunset
By the lake, June 2021
Silhouettes gather round a fire by the water under a crescent moon
Evening by the lake, June 2021

Entry two · Building trust

Building trust is part sense of time, part sense of integrity.

Promising to return had certainly dealt with the latter. In the end I went four times.

Field note · Mets Masrik, 2021

The mothers of Masrik.

I photographed the mothers of the village at their own front doors, against the lace of their curtains. In a set of short films, each family stands in silence in front of its house.

A woman in a knitted waistcoat stands in a doorway, a lace curtain behind herAn older woman in a grey cardigan stands before a floral curtainA woman in a patterned blouse leans in a wooden doorwayA young woman in a red top looks past the camera, white curtains behind
From the Mothers of Masrik series, Mets Masrik, 2021

The films · Mothers of Masrik

Mothers of Masrik film number 1, thumbnailPremieres Sunday 1 NovemberSilent portraitIn their words
Mothers of Masrik film number 2, thumbnailPremieres Sunday 8 NovemberSilent portraitIn their words
Mothers of Masrik film number 3, thumbnailPremieres Sunday 15 NovemberSilent portraitIn their words
Mothers of Masrik film number 4, thumbnailPremieres Sunday 22 NovemberSilent portraitIn their words

One family a week, every Sunday on YouTube. Each film comes in two versions: the family in silence, and the family in their own words.

Portrait of an elderly man against a white wall
Khachik, 2021
Portrait of an elderly woman in a dark blouse
Khachik, 2021
A woman in a patterned scarf smiles outdoors in winter
December 2020
A young man in red boxing gloves stands in a field, mountains behind
June 2021
A smiling boy in red gloves punches into a man’s open palm
June 2021
A small boy looks up past the camera
June 2021
Gagik Harutyunyan among the shelves of his bookshop
Gagik Harutyunyan (died 30 November 2021), Yerevan, June 2021

Entry three · The albums come out

Inspiration can come from many places. A picture wall in the Khachik Museum inspired my documentary film.

The idea was to talk about the museum’s archival images, and to match this with the scanning of family photo albums.

An elderly man sits in front of a wall covered in old family and village photographs
The picture wall, Khachik

Field note · Khachik, June 2021

Her husband slipped away from the proceedings, only to return with a box of negatives. They had many.

Later, one gentleman arrived at the town hall with photo albums under his arm. In this burning heat. He told us he was too excited about the project to listen to the instructions.

Two hands hold up an old black and white photograph of villagers
Scanning the family albums, Khachik, June 2021

From the family archives of Khachik

A combine harvester in a field, in an old print
From the album of Melsik Abrahamjan, born in Khachik in 1950
A black and white wedding portrait of a young couple
The Badalyan family
Two young women with plaits hold books
The Gevorkyan family
A woman in a white coat stands beside a cow
The Harutyunyan family

Scanned with each family in 2022 and shared with their permission.

I’m afraid peace is hardly possible.

Seroyzha, Khachik
Old black and white photographs spread on a table, beside an apple
Prints from a family album, Khachik, June 2021

Entry four · Breaking bread

Anahit invited me to the local bakery to meet women baking lavash in support of the war effort. They had started all the way back in September.

The bread was warm and fresh. Armenians tend to eat it with dry, salty cheese. Not too dissimilar to feta, but saltier. Delicious.

A woman stretches lavash dough by the light of a doorway
Baking lavash, December 2020
A pot set into the glowing embers of a tonir oven
The tonir, Armavir, December 2020

Field note · Armavir, December 2020

An opening in the ground, laid out with clay, with hot coals at the bottom.

A large pot with the lamb and some traditional stew was lowered into the hole. The meat was so tender it fell off the bone. With more vodkas came more speeches and anecdotes. What a feast.

A table spread with bread, cheese, jam and coffee, seen from above
A picnic in the garden, Khachik, June 2021

Entry five · Going back

It was important to me to return to Khachik to get their approval to represent their community, potentially on a global stage.

Irena could not shake off labelling me a spy. Not until she eventually saw the first cut of the film.

Villagers watch the film projected in the community hall
Screening the first cut, spring 2022
Men from the village watch the screening intently
The village watches itself on screen, spring 2022
The community hall filled with families for the screening
Families, neighbours and the school, together, spring 2022

Entry six · The film

The Art of Seeing, The Art of Remembering Trailer · 1 min 25 · Five Mountain Films Best Documentary Short, Paris · Best Social Justice Documentary, Vienna · Best Direction, Toronto Awards, credits and the premiereor on YouTube

End of the walk

Take the walk further

Next in Armenia In Their Hands: the workshops →